Journey 5 pt 2

The start proper

So after the rather inauspicious start I finally got going at around 11. Taking the 11.10 ferry I joined a few cars headed for the Roseland peninsula.

The King Harry Ferry crosses the Carrick roads around 4 miles south of Truro. Recently it was recognised as one of the 10 most beautiful river crossings in the world. On a day like today it does seem slightly difficult to see but the leafy banks of the Carrick roads provide a wonderful backdrop to the short journey. Best of all as a foot passenger I was exempt from paying the crossing fee which has been getting somewhat steep in recent years

Alas again my plans were scuppered with the news that the St. Mawes Place ferry was not sailing due to the adverse weather. I consulted my map to asses the consequences. My new plan was to take the main road out through Philleigh & Ruan Highlanes to Veryan and meet the coast there.

The road up from the Ferry winds gently through a glorious woodland hill. Earlier in the year it would be filled with bluebells but now it was a variety of greens glistening in the slowly falling drizzle. For the majority of this leg I take the road, but there is no lack of beauty there. The hedgerows are alive with glorious pinks and blues. At Philleigh's Roseland Inn I get a call from my Friends who are on the way to Mevagisy. I had planned on taking a path to avoid the road but it is so overgrown that the country lanes provide a better option.

At Ruan Highlanes I finally get the option for a bit of offroad, a path toward Veryan. It would usually provide some delightful vistas down to the sea but today I am robbed by the weather. The path descends into a wooded river valley a little overgrown in places but truly tranquil. It takes me down to a single stone crossing at the confluence of the streams. It leads up a hill back to the road where I meet my first other hikers of the day.

Taking the road down the hill I arrived at the Melinsey Mill where a pot of tea was a very reasonable 1.35. The Mill itself has a working water wheel and a pond which one can eat beside when the rain is not
so torrential. Entry is free and there appeared to be a number of exhibitions and craft stalls on the site.

But the rain easing I feel it time to return to the path.

After finishing my pot of tea I headed back out. The next stretch of path took me to the coast. I left the mill & took a turning up a hill through more dense undergrowth. The path looked like it hadn't be used
in a while but soon opened out into woodland down to a hose by a stream. The path became a little indistinct at this point and the rain decided to intensify but after a little scouting I found the path down
to Pendower beach. The people I had met atop the hill had mentioned the beauty of the sea today and it did not disappoint. The surf was quite impressive for the south, probably 2/3 with a reasonable break. The beach was virtually deserted, apart from a dog walker and a family of brave holiday makes trying to make the best of the day.


The low tide made the beach join with adjacent coves to create an impressive length of greyed yellow sand. I snapped a quick couple of photos with the phone, not wanting to risk the camera in the strengthening rain. Now I was on the coast there was no protection from the winds as they drove a small amount of rain with vicious force.

The coastal path wound up the hill along the road. As with the others I had been on today there was only the single carriageway and I had to avoid a number of travellers even though the path resumed about
500yrds further on. As I turned off I saw the largest Giant Hogweed I think I have ever seen. They were in the grounds of large house or hotel, Pendower court. It would be no exaggeration to say that the leaves were in excess of 2 meters across. On the path I just couldn't get a photo and with the rain today's pictures may not be showing much.

This stretch of the coastal path is National Trust owned according to a sign on the gate Shetland ponies are being used to manage the cliffs. I didn't see any but the path winds through trees and gives little visibility
inland. Toward the sea the rocks accepted the sea, broken into islands by more fine discoloured sand. For the break I had expected more detritus but as the path crossed Porthbean I saw little litter.From the beach at Porthbean steps took me back up the cliff and at this stage they were not super welcome. After them came more intense undergrowth, but by now there was not much of me not soaked so I did not mind too much. At least they were sheltered, and at this time of year soft white dog roses, foxgloves and many other native beauties enliven the green and brown of the wood. Much of the canopy had been beaten down presumably by wind and weather. I found myself spending a  fair amount of time bending and struggling to get under the low hawthorns and other bent branches.

Finally the path started to open up as I came around the headland of Pednvaden with it's lonely Cost Watch station. There Portscatho becomes visible again having been hidden for much of the walk. The approach to the village takes me across Porthcurnick Beach which today was home to a group of surfers who were  trying to catch the swell. As I said it was reasonable for the south and there did look a little bit of ridable face.

Once across the beach there are more dreaded steps up to a rather confusing cross roads of paths. I was not about to dampen my map further so I took the left in the direction of the village and closest to the sea, but a sign would have helped. Looking at the map it appears straight would have taken me to the main road into Portscatho and only would have added to my climb.


The decent along the cliff face soon develops into a street with houses covering both sides. They do give a wonderful view and would most likely fetch a significant premium on sale. A nice feature of one was an outdoor shower presumably for after an afternoon beaching to wash off and clean the wetsuits.

On arrival I contacted my friends from a handy payphone due to further lack of signal. The village also provided a shop to garner ingredients for a vegetarian main meal.

We camped at the Treloan Campsite for which I paid £5 backpacker rate and my friends £22.50 for the two nights per couple. The site was clean, had all the amenities we needed (toilets, water and shower) and they even jump started our car in the morning after we had the fridge on for four hours. Highly recommended.

While this journey did not add a lot to the journey around Cornwall I did get a chance to see more of the the beautiful Roseland. Although on a sunnier day I may have had more traffic on the roads crossing the
peninsula they are still filled with wildlife and wild flowers which would only be improved by a bright sunny day.

Journey 5 pt 1

Today I walking from Trelissick gardens just outside of Truro to Gerrans on the Roseland. There my friends are camping and so I get thefirst camp of my trip.I am blogging from the phone so there should be some updates throughout the day as well as photos on my flickr stream & probably Twitter as well just for information overload.The journey starts with the obligatory bus ride. The bus today is the Truronian T16 leaving the Truro bus station at 10.50. The rain has dwindled to s mild drizzle from the torrents falling when I awoke this morning. At present wind is more a factor gusting randomly about. I never cease to be surprised by the amount of buses and people at the Truro bus station. There never seems to be a time of inactivity. I
have in the past let the buses decide my route, taking whichever comes in next. One memorable trip took me to Newquay via Crantock then onto St. Austell before Charlestown and the return leg. The best thing
about buses is the ability they give to explore random parts of the country with a whole new perspective. It's amazing what a few extra feet/inches gives you.

Damn, despite all my praise for the buses the Truronian T16 not only changed stand but didn't stop when I tried to flag him down in the bus station or when stuck at the bollard. Oh I was so mad!Alternative plan now in place, quick bus to playing place then a lift  to the ferry. Not too much time wasted just annoying that there was no indication of the change.

More later.....